Hoppers Soho: Authentic Sri Lankan Flavors in the Heart of London

A Culinary Tribute to Sri Lankan Street Food

Hoppers Soho brings the essence of Sri Lankan and South Indian Tamil Nadu cuisine to London’s bustling Soho district. The restaurant’s namesake dish, the hopper, is a delicate, bowl-shaped pancake made from fermented rice and coconut flour, prized for its crispy edges and soft, fluffy center. These are often served with an array of richly spiced curries and sambols, perfect for scooping and mopping. Signature dishes include the lamb kothu roti—a shredded roti stir-fried with tender lamb and vegetables—and the indulgent bone marrow varuval, celebrated for its rich, buttery curry that has garnered a devoted following.

Atmosphere and Ambience in a Compact Setting

Located on Frith Street, Hoppers Soho is known for its lively, buzzy atmosphere that reflects the vibrant street food culture it celebrates. The interior features wood-paneled walls, patterned tiled floors, and rustic copper plates, creating a warm, intimate environment despite the restaurant’s relatively small size. The space can feel packed and noisy during peak times, contributing to its energetic vibe but also making it less suited for those seeking a quiet, relaxed meal. Service is efficient and direct, aiming to keep the turnover brisk in this popular venue.

Menu Highlights and Dietary Considerations

The menu is a treasure trove of Sri Lankan flavors with a variety of small plates and mains designed for sharing. Beyond the hoppers, dishes like the Kalupol roasted half chicken with rich curry sauce and fiery devilled paneer stand out. The restaurant caters well to gluten-free and lactose-free diets, offering separate menu cards for these requirements, and features vegan and vegetarian options such as the jackfruit kari, a richly spiced yet light dish. Portions tend to be on the smaller side, reflecting Soho’s dining scene pricing.

Legacy and Expansion

Celebrating over a decade since its opening, Hoppers Soho has grown into a flagship for JKS Restaurants, spawning additional branches in Marylebone and King’s Cross. While the Soho location remains the original and most atmospheric, the newer venues offer more space and a slightly different vibe. The Soho branch retains a dedicated fan base for its authentic flavors and the unique experience of Sri Lankan street food in a London setting.

Challenges and Critiques

While widely praised for its food quality and authenticity, some diners find the Soho location’s cramped quarters and noisy environment challenging. Service can feel rushed during busy periods, as the restaurant prioritizes table turnover. Additionally, some reviews note that the spice levels and portion sizes may not suit all tastes, and the price point is reflective of its central London location.

Experience Beyond the Plate

Dining at Hoppers Soho is as much about the cultural immersion as it is about the food. The decor and bustling atmosphere evoke the spirit of Sri Lankan street markets, offering a sensory journey through aromas, textures, and vibrant flavors. The restaurant’s commitment to authenticity, combined with its lively Soho setting, makes it a memorable stop for those seeking an adventurous and flavorful dining experience in London.