Background

St James Garlickhythe

Wren's luminous masterpiece on Garlick Hill, where medieval history meets architectural brilliance and mystery.

4.7

St James Garlickhythe, known as 'Wren's Lantern', is a historic Anglican church on Garlick Hill in the City of London. Originally established in Anglo-Saxon times and rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren following the Great Fire of 1666, this architectural gem features the highest ceiling of any Wren church and exceptional natural light. The church maintains traditional 1662 Book of Common Prayer services and holds significant historical records, including England's oldest parish registers dating to 1535. Its ornate Portland stone steeple, mysterious mummified remains, and deep connections to the Vintners' Livery Company make it a compelling destination for history enthusiasts and spiritual seekers alike.

A brief summary to St James Garlickhythe

  • Garlick Hill, London, EC4V 2AF, GB
  • +442036331927
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.5 to 2 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Indoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Visit on a weekday morning to experience the church's exceptional natural light and architectural details without crowds. The bright interior is particularly stunning in clear weather.
  • Attend the Sunday 10:30 a.m. Sung Eucharist to experience traditional 1662 Book of Common Prayer worship with choral music in an intimate, historically authentic setting.
  • Look for the scallop shell motifs on the exterior and interior—symbols of St James the Apostle and markers of this church's role as a medieval pilgrimage site.
  • Examine the salvaged woodwork and furnishings from St Michael Queenhithe, including the choirstalls with doorframes from the medieval church, which tell the story of London's ecclesiastical history.
  • Ask the staff about the church's oldest parish registers (dating to 1535) and the legend of Jimmy Garlick, the mysterious mummified figure discovered in the vaults.
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Getting There

  • London Underground

    Take the District, Circle, or Central Line to Cannon Street station. Exit and walk north-northwest up Cannon Street for approximately 350 meters, then turn onto Garlick Hill. The church is located at the top of the hill. Journey time from central London is typically 15–25 minutes depending on your starting point and service frequency.

  • London Underground (Alternative)

    Take the District or Circle Line to Mansion House station. Exit and walk north along Queen Victoria Street for approximately 250 meters, then turn right onto Garlick Hill. The church entrance is at the top of the hill. Total journey time is typically 12–20 minutes from central London.

  • Bus

    Multiple bus routes serve the area, including routes 15, 40, and 76, which stop near Cannon Street or on Upper Thames Street. Alight at stops near Garlick Hill and walk uphill to reach the church. Journey times vary from 20–40 minutes depending on traffic and your starting location. Buses run frequently throughout the day.

  • Walking

    If you are in the City of London or nearby areas such as St Paul's Cathedral or the Thames riverfront, St James Garlickhythe is accessible on foot. From St Paul's Cathedral, the walk takes approximately 12–15 minutes heading southeast. The route involves moderate gradients on Garlick Hill itself. The church is situated on a narrow historic street with limited vehicle traffic, making it a pleasant pedestrian destination.

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A Sacred Site Through the Centuries

St James Garlickhythe has occupied its position on Garlick Hill since Anglo-Saxon times, making it one of London's most enduring places of worship. The church is first documented in a will dated between 1096 and 1115, though archaeological and historical evidence suggests a sacred structure stood here far earlier. The name itself reveals the area's medieval character: 'hythe' derives from the Saxon word for landing place or jetty, while 'Garlick' refers to the garlic that was unloaded and traded along the Thames banks by local merchants. The church became an important spiritual and commercial hub, serving as a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella, as indicated by the scallop shell motif adorning its exterior. In the fourteenth century, the medieval church was substantially rebuilt by Richard de Rothing and his son John, both members of the Vintners' guild. This reconstruction established much of the footprint that the current building occupies today. By the following century, St James had grown into a significant parish church, supported by numerous chantries and served by priests who maintained quarters within the church complex. The church became closely associated with the Vintners' Livery Company, a relationship that has endured for over 650 years and remains central to the church's identity.

Wren's Architectural Triumph and Restoration

The Great Fire of 1666 destroyed the medieval church entirely, but Sir Christopher Wren's vision transformed the loss into an architectural masterpiece. The foundation stone was laid in 1676, and the church reopened on 10 December 1682, with completion following in 1683. Wren's design is remarkable for its structural innovation: St James is unusual among City Wren churches in possessing a structurally separate sanctuary, and its nave reaches forty feet in height—the highest of any Wren church apart from St Paul's Cathedral itself. The architect's masterful use of extensive glazing and careful proportioning earned the church its enduring nickname, 'Wren's Lantern', a testament to the brilliant natural light that floods the interior. The steeple, completed to specifications by Nicholas Hawksmoor in 1717, stands as one of the City's most beautiful and ornate structures, its pure white Portland stone resembling an elaborate wedding cake. The gallery with its handsome double staircase was added to accommodate the organ, installed in 1718 by Johann Knoppell, though it is believed to have been originally constructed by Bernhard Schmidt, known as 'Father Smith'. The chancel was enlarged in 1876 to accommodate the pulpit and choirstalls, which were salvaged from the demolished St Michael Queenhithe. The backs of these stalls were ingeniously fashioned from the doorframes of the old church, creating a tangible link to the medieval structure that preceded Wren's design.

Treasures, Records, and Historical Significance

St James holds some of England's most precious historical records. The parish registers, initiated in 1535—three years before Henry VIII's mandate requiring churches to maintain such records—represent the oldest continuous parish registers in England. The first entry documents the baptism of Edward Butler on 18 November 1535. These ancient registers, along with other City records, are now preserved at the London Metropolitan Archives, ensuring their protection for future generations. The church's historical importance is further underscored by the presence of six Lord Mayors buried within its medieval walls, commemorated by plaques on the north wall. The interior contains remarkable original and salvaged woodwork, including an altar table carved with doves, a marble font with carved cherubs' heads, and the mayoral swordrest adorned with lion and unicorn supporters. The finely carved and painted Stuart coat of arms on the south wall, transferred from St Michael Queenhithe, contrasts with St James' own Georgian arms displayed on the north wall. In 1815, the great east window was replaced by a painting of the Ascension by Andrew Geddes, ARA, which remains a focal point of the chancel. The church is also home to the Royal Jubilee Bells, cast in 2012 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

The Mystery of Jimmy Garlick and Supernatural Legend

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of St James Garlickhythe is the mystery surrounding its famous mummy, known affectionately as 'Jimmy Garlick'. Discovered in the church vaults in the 1830s in a state of almost perfect preservation, this small, wizened figure was long believed to be an adolescent boy from the late seventeenth century. For many years, Jimmy was displayed in a glass case in the vestry, where visitors paid a small fee to view the curious remains. Over the decades, the mummy was moved throughout the church—from the vaults to a cupboard in the narthex, and even behind the organ—accumulating folklore and ghost stories along the way. Visitors have reported feeling an unexplained presence in the building, attributing these sensations to Jimmy's spirit. Today, Jimmy rests in a fine coffin hidden within the body of the church, his existence as a tourist attraction mercifully ended, though the legend surrounding him persists.

Resilience Through War and Modern Challenges

St James survived both World Wars with remarkable fortune. During a Zeppelin raid in 1915, a bomb came dangerously close to the structure. In 1941, another bomb pierced the roof but miraculously failed to detonate, sparing the church from destruction while the surrounding area suffered heavy damage from incendiaries. The magnificent clock at the front of the church, however, was destroyed during the bombing campaigns. A replica, installed in 1988, faithfully recreates the 1682 original and was restored with significant support from the Vintners' Livery Company. In 1991, the church faced an unexpected challenge when a crane collapsed during the construction of Vintners Hall across the road, and the jib came through the wall of the south transept, destroying the rose window and causing considerable internal damage. The church's resilience and the dedication of its community ensured its restoration and continued operation.

Living Tradition and Contemporary Worship

Today, St James Garlickhythe remains a beacon of traditional Anglican worship. Services are drawn from the 1662 Book of Common Prayer, a practice the church has maintained since the seventeenth century, with readings from the King James Bible. The Sunday Sung Eucharist at 10:30 a.m. features traditional choral music and maintains the liturgical practices that have defined the church for centuries. St James serves as the church of the Intelligence Corps and holds the Book of Remembrance, honoring those who have served in this vital organization. The church is also the Guild Church for ten Livery Companies, though its strongest association remains with the Vintners' Company, whose connection to the site spans over six and a half centuries. In front of the church stands a bronze statue of Martin Spencer, the Bargemaster of the Vintners' Company, accompanied by a swan, commemorating the annual Swan Upping ceremony that has taken place on the Thames for at least five hundred years.

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