Background

St Michael's Church: Paternoster Royal, London

Historic Anglican church on College Hill, rebuilt by Wren and linked to Dick Whittington, featuring stunning stained glass and a Hawksmoor spire.

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St Michael's Church, known as Paternoster Royal, is a historic Anglican church located on College Hill in London. Originally recorded in the 13th century, it was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of 1666 and restored in the 1960s following severe damage in World War II. The church is closely linked to Richard 'Dick' Whittington, the famed four-time Lord Mayor of London, who founded a collegiate church here and was buried on the site. Today, it serves as the chapel and headquarters of the Missions to Seamen, showcasing fine stained glass and a Hawksmoor-designed spire.

A brief summary to St Michael's Church : Paternoster Royal

  • College Hill, London, EC4R 2RL, GB
  • +447720297720
  • Visit website
  • Duration: 0.5 to 1.5 hours
  • Free
  • Environment icon Outdoor
  • Mobile reception: 5 out of 5

Local tips

  • Admire the remarkable post-war stained glass windows by John Hayward, especially the depiction of Dick Whittington and his cat.
  • Visit Whittington Garden nearby to enjoy a peaceful green space created after wartime bomb damage.
  • Explore the church’s exterior details, including the Portland stone south façade and Hawksmoor-designed spire.
  • Learn about the church’s connection to the Missions to Seamen, which uses it as their chapel and headquarters.
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Getting There

  • London Underground

    Take the Central Line to St Paul's Station, then walk approximately 10 minutes northeast through city streets to reach College Hill. The walk is on paved urban terrain and accessible. Tube fare ranges from £2.50 to £6.00 depending on payment method.

  • Bus

    Bus routes 15 and 17 serve nearby Upper Thames Street with stops within a 5-minute walk of College Hill. Buses run frequently during the day, with single fares around £1.75 using contactless payment. Note that traffic congestion may affect journey times.

  • Taxi or Ride-Hailing

    A taxi or ride-hailing service from central London locations typically takes 10–20 minutes depending on traffic. Fares vary but expect approximately £10–£20. Drop-off is possible near the church entrance on College Hill.

St Michael's Church : Paternoster Royal location weather suitability

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Medieval Origins and Richard Whittington's Legacy

St Michael Paternoster Royal first appears in records dating back to 1219, originally serving a parish near the rosary makers (paternoster) and wine merchants from La Reole, Bordeaux. The church gained prominence through Richard Whittington, the wealthy and influential four-time Lord Mayor of London. In 1409, Whittington funded the rebuilding of the church as a collegiate institution, administered by a college of priests, which became known as Whittington College. His will stipulated that he be buried within its precincts, and although his tomb is now lost, a memorial tablet commemorates him. Adjacent to the church, Whittington also founded almshouses for the poor, underscoring his philanthropic impact on the area.

Destruction and Rebuilding Through the Centuries

The original medieval church was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. It was subsequently rebuilt under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren, with the spire likely designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor. The south façade, facing Upper Thames Street, is notable for its Portland stone and six round-headed windows adorned with cherub keystones. Victorian restorations in the 19th century further shaped the church’s architectural character. However, during the London Blitz in World War II, St Michael’s suffered severe bomb damage, with much of the building destroyed by a V1 flying bomb in 1944.

Post-War Restoration and Artistic Highlights

After extensive damage, the church was not restored until the 1960s, reopening in 1968 as the last City church to be restored after the war. The restoration, led by architect Elidir Davies, preserved surviving furnishings and incorporated elements salvaged from nearby demolished churches. Inside, visitors encounter exceptional post-war stained glass windows by John Hayward, depicting angels from Genesis and the Apocalypse, as well as a charming portrayal of Dick Whittington and his cat. The church now functions as the chapel and headquarters for the Missions to Seamen, maintaining its spiritual and community role.

Architectural and Cultural Significance

St Michael’s stands as a testament to London's resilience and layered history. Its architectural blend of Wren’s Baroque influence, Hawksmoor’s spire design, and Victorian restorations reflect centuries of evolving styles. The church’s connection to Dick Whittington links it to London’s civic heritage and folklore. The surrounding Whittington Garden, created after wartime clearance of adjacent buildings, provides a tranquil open space that enhances the church’s urban setting.

Current Role and Visitor Experience

Today, St Michael Paternoster Royal serves both as a place of worship and a hub for maritime ministry. Its peaceful interior, enriched with symbolic stained glass and historical artifacts, offers visitors a reflective experience amid the bustling City of London. Though temporarily closed for public access, the church remains a significant landmark for those interested in London’s medieval roots, Wren architecture, and the enduring legacy of one of its most famous citizens.

Surroundings and Context

Located on College Hill near Upper Thames Street, the church is nestled in a historic area once associated with trade and commerce, including the nearby Garlick Hill. The site’s name reflects its collegiate origins and the legacy of Whittington’s charitable foundations. The church’s proximity to the Thames and the City’s financial district situates it within a dynamic urban landscape where history and modernity intersect.

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