Bunker Tour Rømø – Robbe Nord in Tvismark Plantation

Concrete relics beneath the Rømø forest floor

In the middle of Rømø, between the causeway and the wide beaches, Tvismark Plantation hides a surprising chapter of European history. Among the pines, heather and shifting dunes lie the remains of the German radar position "Robbe Nord", part of the Atlantic Wall in the final years of the Second World War. Here concrete bunkers for radar, searchlights and anti‑aircraft guns were poured straight into the coastal landscape, then later partly buried in sand when demolition proved too complex. Today around 15 of the original roughly 50 island bunkers are concentrated in this 1.5 km² plantation, scattered between forest tracks and low rises. From ground level many appear as moss‑covered humps, ventilation pipes or angular concrete mouths peeking out of the heather. The Bunker Tour uses these remnants as an open‑air classroom, connecting the quiet of the modern forest with the tension of a militarised coastline in the 1940s.

Following the traces of "Robbe Nord"

The guided tour starts at Naturcenter Tønnisgård, the local nature centre that specialises in Rømø’s landscapes and wildlife as well as its wartime history. After an introduction with historic photographs and maps, the group continues into Tvismark Plantation where old communication trenches and hidden paths link the positions. Underfoot you may feel the soft cushion of needles and sand, while above the trees occasionally open to reveal low dunes and glimpses towards the Wadden Sea. Along the way the guide explains why Rømø became strategically important, how radar technology developed, and what daily life for the roughly 1400 soldiers on the island might have looked like. The massive command bunker – sometimes nicknamed the "mammoth bunker" – and several smaller structures illustrate different functions, from fire control to crew shelters. The mix of factual explanation and tangible structures helps to make an abstract frontline map suddenly very concrete.

Inside the bunkers: keys, torches and narrow passages

One of the distinctive aspects of this tour is access to the interior of selected bunkers, which are normally kept locked for safety and conservation. With a key and torches, heavy steel doors swing open to reveal cool, echoing rooms, thick walls and rusting fixtures. You can examine ventilation shafts, embrasures, cable openings and insulators that once carried the hum of radar equipment. For those who wish, there is usually the chance to crawl through a tight emergency escape shaft, emerging sandy‑kneed and with a strong sense of how constrained these concrete shelters felt when fully manned. Families with younger children can opt for a specially adapted "bunker expedition" version, where the focus lies more on discovery and imagination than on technical detail. In every case, solid footwear and clothes that can get dusty are a sensible choice.

Nature, war memory and the modern Wadden Sea landscape

What makes the Bunker Tour particularly striking is the contrast between wartime purpose and today’s tranquil scenery. Larks, shorebirds and the scent of resin now dominate an area once defined by radar beams and anti‑aircraft guns. The guides often weave in broader stories about the Wadden Sea National Park, migratory birds and coastal formation, showing how the same geography that attracted military planners now supports protected ecosystems. The plantation itself offers a varied micro‑landscape: shaded forest tracks, open heath with dwarf shrubs, and sandy clearings where wind and sun quickly dry the ground. Many visitors combine the tour with time on Rømø’s beaches or visits to other historic sites such as the Kommandørgården farm or the cannon hill near Havneby, creating a day that moves between culture, history and nature.

Planning your visit with Naturcenter Tønnisgård

The Bunker Tour is organised by Naturcenter Tønnisgård, located at Blåbærvej 32 on Rømø, which also runs guided mudflat walks, shrimp trips, oyster tours and creative workshops. Bunker tours typically run from spring to autumn, with a reduced programme in the off‑season, and places are limited, so advance booking is advisable. There are variants aimed at adults and families, with commentary available in several languages on selected dates. Allow around two to three hours for the experience, including the indoor introduction and the walk through the plantation. The terrain is mostly flat but can be sandy and root‑strewn, and bunker interiors involve steps or low passages, so not every element is suitable for all mobility levels. Even so, the core of the tour remains a relatively gentle forest walk, making this a compelling way to explore a lesser‑known side of Rømø while gaining insight into both the Atlantic Wall and the contemporary Wadden Sea landscape.