Princess Louise

A Victorian Masterpiece Frozen in Time

Built in 1872 and completely remodelled in 1891, the Princess Louise stands as one of London's most splendid surviving examples of Victorian gin palace architecture. The exterior presents a modest Italianate facade, but stepping through its doors transports visitors into an era of theatrical grandeur and meticulous craftsmanship. The interior was designed by the otherwise obscure architect Arthur Chitty, whose vision created a space of such sumptuous fantasy that it remains virtually unchanged more than a century later. Every architectural element—from the soaring ceilings to the marble counters—speaks to the ambitions of Victorian publicans who viewed their establishments as palaces for ordinary people.

The Artistry of Materials and Design

The pub's decorative scheme represents the pinnacle of Victorian decorative arts. Tiles by W. B. Simpson & Sons cover walls and floors in intricate patterns, while etched glasswork signed by R. Morris and Son adorns the mahogany partitions that divide the space. Enormous engraved and gilt mirrors reflect light throughout the interior, amplifying the sense of space and luxury. Portland stone columns support an ornate crimson and gold ceiling, and the bar itself features a distinctive U-shaped island counter that allowed Victorian staff to move efficiently among patrons. The Grade II-listed urinals are themselves architectural curiosities, worthy of inspection for their period authenticity and decorative detail.

Seven Intimate Drinking Spaces

The pub's most distinctive feature is its division into seven separate drinking areas, each originally designed to serve different clientele and occasions. These spaces are separated by mahogany partitions with decorative etched glass panels, creating a labyrinthine layout that feels both intimate and theatrical. During the mid-20th century, these internal screenwork dividers were removed, fundamentally altering the pub's character. In 2008, Sam Smith's undertook an expensive and meticulous restoration, reinstating the lost partitions based on surviving etched glazing and historical interior plans. This restoration returned the pub to its original Victorian configuration, creating snugs and small bars at the front, rear, and sides that provide secluded corners for quiet conversation or contemplation.

The Royal Connection and Historical Significance

The pub takes its name from Princess Louise, the sixth child and fourth daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Born in 1848, Princess Louise was an accomplished artist and sculptor whose talents earned her the unofficial position of secretary to her mother between 1866 and 1871. She was known as the Queen's most beautiful daughter and was regarded as something of a character—a woman who enjoyed smoking, dabbled in nude painting, and was frequently the subject of court gossip. Her marriage to the future Duke of Argyll in 1871 marked a turning point in her life, and the pub's construction the following year may have been intended as a tribute to this notable royal figure. Princess Louise died in 1939, having left an indelible mark on Victorian society and the artistic world.

A Living Heritage Pub

As a Sam Smith's tied house, the Princess Louise maintains strict policies that reflect its historical character: no swearing, no mobile phones, and no live music or televisions. These rules preserve the contemplative atmosphere that distinguishes it from modern pubs. The establishment serves food from lunchtime, with a menu that balances traditional British fare—steak and kidney pudding, bangers and mash—alongside more contemporary dishes. A large function room upstairs, accessible via a discreet stairway, provides additional dining and event space. The pub's location on High Holborn places it within walking distance of London's Theatreland, the Courts of Justice, and historic Fleet Street, ensuring that its walls have absorbed countless conversations and stories across nearly 150 years.

The Experience of Authentic Victorian Leisure

Visiting the Princess Louise offers a rare opportunity to experience Victorian public life as it was genuinely lived. The pub's segregated rooms, each with direct access to the marble-effect bar, allow visitors to choose their level of social engagement—from the bustling central bar to quiet corners where solitude and reflection are cherished. Early arrival is advisable for securing one of the highly prized snugs, particularly during peak hours. The pub's popularity with both locals and visitors means it can become crowded, yet even at capacity it maintains an air of civility and quiet respect. Timing a visit for early afternoon offers the possibility of experiencing the pub in relative tranquility, when only the occasional clink of glassware breaks the silence and the full architectural splendour can be properly appreciated.