Hasle Smokehouse (Hasle Røgeri), Bornholm

Smoke and sea air on Bornholm’s rugged west coast

Hasle Smokehouse sits on the edge of the Baltic, just south of the little harbour town of Hasle, where the smell of alderwood smoke drifts inland and white chimneys rise above the shoreline. The complex stretches along the water with a row of traditional smokehouse buildings, low and whitewashed, their dark roofs and tall vents immediately recognizable against the sky. The sea is only a few steps away, and on clear evenings you can watch the sun sink into the Baltic while the chimneys quietly breathe. Bornholm’s smokehouses are an icon of the island, and Hasle is among the most atmospheric. The setting feels more like a working coastal yard than a polished restaurant: simple buildings, wooden tables, gravel and grass underfoot, and fishing boats in the distance. Gulls wheel overhead, and there is often a gentle background murmur of people moving between the counters, terraces, and the shoreline.

From herring to history: a living food tradition

Hasle Smokehouse is the last place on Bornholm where fish is still smoked in the old-fashioned way over open chimneys using alderwood, just as it was more than a century ago. Inside one of the buildings, the original smokehouse from 1897 has been preserved as a small museum-style space, with brick ovens, hanging racks and tools showing how herring has been treated here for generations. Walking through, you can see how rows of fish once lined the rafters, absorbing smoke rising from the open fires below. In one of the neighbouring smokehouses, the tradition continues in full operation. Early in the morning, staff prepare fresh fish, brining and hanging them before firing up the alderwood. At certain times you can glimpse the process, from the pale raw fillets to the moment the first golden, oily herrings emerge, skin taut and gleaming. This blend of working production and preserved heritage makes Hasle more than just a place to eat; it is a small window into Bornholm’s maritime past.

Buffets, classics and no-fuss seaside dining

Food at Hasle Smokehouse is straightforward and generous. The signature is the smoked fish buffet, often laid out theatrically in or around a boat on ice, with several varieties of herring alongside other fish, salads, rye bread and local specialities. Diners pile plates high and return as they like, while children can try milder options or stick to simple favourites. A la carte dishes are also available, typically centred on smoked fish – think creamed herring, smoked salmon or a classic open-faced herring sandwich. The atmosphere is deliberately unpretentious. You find long tables, benches, and plenty of space to spread out rather than fine linens and formality. Families with small children, groups of cyclists and walkers in outdoor gear all fit in comfortably. On fine days the action spills outside, and it becomes easy to linger, nibbling fish and sipping a drink while watching clouds and ferries pass offshore.

Coastal light, fresh air and space to wander

What sets Hasle apart is the combination of culinary heritage and wild coastal scenery. Just beyond the smokehouses, a path follows the shoreline, and low cliffs and stony beaches invite a short stroll before or after eating. The air smells of salt, smoke and occasionally seaweed, and the views along the west coast take on a golden glow around sunset. It is a natural stop on walks and bike rides along Bornholm’s western edge, with open views and the distant sound of waves as a constant backdrop. Benches and informal seating areas around the buildings allow you to sit with a plate or takeaway fish and simply watch the light change over the Baltic. It is easy to imagine the days when smoking fish was purely a matter of survival and export, rather than enjoyment, and the setting still carries that working-coast character even as it caters to hungry travellers.

Practicalities for planning your visit

Hasle Smokehouse usually operates long daytime and evening hours in the main season, with shorter or closed periods outside the summer months, so checking opening times in advance is sensible. The site itself is mostly level, with a mix of gravel, paving and indoor areas; doorways and thresholds are not overly tight, though some of the older museum sections can feel compact. Most visitors spend one to two hours here, enough time to explore the preserved smokehouse, enjoy a relaxed meal and pause along the waterfront. The location is used to handling families, and there is space for children to move about without feeling constrained. Mobile reception around Hasle is generally reliable, but the atmosphere encourages you to put the phone away and focus on the simple pleasures of smoked fish, fresh air and long Baltic horizons.