Saltholm Island

An offshore world of wind, water and sky

Saltholm rises only a couple of metres above the Øresund, a broad, almost table-flat sliver of land just east of Amager and within sight of Copenhagen’s runways and the Øresund Bridge. Despite this urban proximity, the island feels remote and elemental: endless grassland, salt marsh and glistening tidal flats framed by big northern skies. Shallow waters spread far beyond the shoreline, turning the island and its surrounding shoals into one large, gently breathing seascape. The island stretches roughly 7 km long and 3 km across, yet there are almost no trees and very few buildings to interrupt the horizon. On clear days you can trace the silhouettes of Copenhagen and Malmö on opposite shores while standing amid mudflats and meadows where the loudest sounds are wind and birds. It is this stark contrast between modern infrastructure in the distance and near-pristine nature underfoot that makes Saltholm so distinctive.

From medieval land grant to modern nature reserve

Saltholm has been known for centuries; it appears in records from the early 13th century as a royal gift to the Bishop of Roskilde and later became an important source of limestone for Copenhagen’s construction boom. For generations, stone was quarried here and ferried to the city, and cattle from nearby Amager grazed the open pastures, shaping the island’s almost treeless grassland character. In the early 1700s, Saltholm briefly served a very different role as a quarantine island during outbreaks of plague and cholera, isolating travellers before they were allowed to enter Copenhagen. In the 20th century planners even proposed turning Saltholm into a major international airport and transport hub, but the scheme was eventually abandoned in favour of protecting the fragile environment. Today the island is privately owned yet heavily regulated as a nature reserve, with strict rules designed to safeguard its unique landscape and wildlife.

Bird sanctuary in the Øresund shallows

The true richness of Saltholm lies in its ecology. Surrounding shallows host extensive mussel beds, eelgrass, snails and crustaceans, forming an abundant buffet for ducks, geese and waders. Vast flocks of barnacle and greylag geese graze the meadows, while eiders and other sea ducks work the offshore feeding grounds. Parts of the island and its southern salt marshes are protected under international conventions, underscoring their importance for nesting and migratory birds. Because of this sensitivity, access is tightly controlled. Large central and southern areas are closed during the spring and early summer breeding season, and some zones remain off limits year-round. Visitors are expected to stay within permitted areas, keep disturbance to an absolute minimum and respect any seasonal markers and local guidance. For nature-minded travellers, this careful management is part of the appeal: a genuine working bird sanctuary rather than a landscaped park.

Exploring an island with almost no infrastructure

Facilities on Saltholm are extremely limited, and that is exactly why it feels so special. A small harbour at the northern end functions as the main gateway, and from here informal paths lead across grassland and along low, stony shores. There are no villages, shops or paved roads, only a scattering of farm buildings and shelters tied to the island’s long tradition of grazing livestock. Walking is straightforward but can be soggy; much of the ground is damp or uneven, with tidal pools and muddy sections where waterproof boots are invaluable. In places, the land blurs into the surrounding tidal flats, and you quickly gain a sense of how vulnerable the island is to storms and high water. This lack of conventional attractions means a visit is all about slow observation: watching bird movements, studying coastal plants and feeling the rhythm of weather and tide.

Solitude, seasons and subtle details

Because Saltholm has no resident tourist infrastructure and regulated access, visits tend to be occasional and highly seasonal. Spring and early autumn can be spectacular for birdlife and atmospheric light over the Øresund, while summer brings long days, grazing flocks and the hum of insects in the grass. Even at busier times, the island rarely feels crowded; the open landscape and restricted zones disperse people naturally. This is a place for travellers who enjoy detail and quiet: the texture of chalky soil underfoot, the patterns left by receding water on the flats, and the contrast between soft grass meadows and the hard modern line of the Øresund Bridge on the horizon. Saltholm is not about ticking sights off a list; it is about entering a different tempo just a short sea crossing from metropolitan Copenhagen.