Saltholm Island

Wind-shaped island on Copenhagen’s horizon

Saltholm is a flat, sea-grazed island lying in the Øresund strait between Denmark and Sweden, just east of Amager yet separated from the city by a wide belt of shallow water and salt marsh. Stretching roughly 7 km by 3 km, with its highest point only a couple of metres above sea level, the island feels more like an oversized sandbank than a conventional landmass. From its grassy edge you see the Øresund Bridge and the air traffic of Copenhagen Airport in the distance, but on the ground the mood is quiet, wind-swept and surprisingly wild. Much of Saltholm is composed of chalk meadows, coastal marsh and open grassland. The vegetation is low and hardy, adapted to salt spray and winter storms, which leaves the horizon impressively open. Trees are scarce and clustered mainly in the north and southwest, so the light falls unbroken across the island, changing constantly with clouds and weather. Underfoot, ground can shift quickly from firm turf to soggy marsh, reminding you that this is a landscape shaped by tides as much as by seasons.

Living sanctuary for birds and coastal wildlife

Saltholm is protected as a nature reserve and designated as an internationally important bird area, and that status defines almost every aspect of the experience. The surrounding shallows are rich in mussels, eelgrass, snails and small crustaceans, forming the feeding base for huge numbers of waterfowl and waders. In summer, thousands of geese graze the meadows, while colonies of eiders, terns and other seabirds nest in the quieter corners of the island. Access to large parts of Saltholm is tightly restricted to protect breeding birds. The southern salt marsh is off-limits all year, and additional central zones close during the nesting season, leaving only the northernmost part freely accessible. This zoning creates a layered sense of remoteness: even when you stand at the allowed boundary, you are looking into areas given over almost entirely to wildlife. The calls of birds, the hiss of wind in the grass and the slap of water at the shore become the soundtrack to a visit.

From medieval gift to wartime frontier

Despite its sparse appearance today, Saltholm has a long and surprisingly varied human history. The island was first recorded in the 13th century as a royal gift to the bishop of Roskilde, and for centuries it provided limestone used to build Copenhagen and other towns. Traces of old quarry pits and stone workings still linger in the landscape if you know where to look, subtle reminders that this quiet island once fuelled urban growth on the mainland. Its isolated position in the Øresund also gave Saltholm strategic importance. During outbreaks of plague and cholera in the 18th and early 19th centuries, it served as a quarantine station where travellers had to stay before entering Copenhagen. Later, its waters became part of the defensive shield around the capital, complemented by nearby sea forts built on artificial islands. In the 20th century planners even considered Saltholm as the site for a new international airport and fixed link, a vision ultimately abandoned to spare the fragile environment.

Today’s rhythm of grazing, tides and silence

Modern Saltholm has no conventional town or dense settlement, only scattered farm buildings and seasonal activity tied to grazing and nature management. The island is privately owned through a local association, and livestock still play a vital role in keeping the meadows open for birds. You may encounter cattle or sheep moving slowly across the grasslands, adding a pastoral note to what is otherwise a distinctly maritime setting. The sense of time here is dictated by tides, weather and migration rather than by clocks. Mist can roll in from the sea, erasing Sweden from view; clear days open vast panoramas of coastlines, bridges and distant city skylines. Under strong east winds the very low relief of the island becomes evident, as waves press higher across the shallows and the boundary between land and water blurs. It is a place where you remain conscious of how thin the ground is between you and the sea.

Experiencing a near-urban wilderness

Visiting Saltholm is less about ticking off sights and more about entering a specific mood. Paths are few and unmarked, facilities minimal, and there is little in the way of shelter beyond simple buildings at the harbour area. You walk on grass and soft ground, pausing to scan the shoreline for birds or to watch flocks of geese rise in sudden waves. Photography focuses on big skies, textures of grass and mudflats, and the striking juxtaposition of wild foreground with the engineering lines of the Øresund Bridge in the distance. Because access is controlled and seasonal, every visit feels a little like a privilege. The island offers a rare chance to experience near-urban wilderness: standing in open wind within sight of one of northern Europe’s busiest transport corridors, yet hearing only gulls, distant surf and perhaps the lowing of cattle. For travellers who enjoy quiet coastal landscapes, birdwatching and subtle history etched into terrain, Saltholm reveals its character slowly but memorably.