Gamleborg in Paradisbakkerne

Ancient stronghold in a wild Bornholm landscape

Gamleborg lies tucked into the south‑western corner of Paradisbakkerne, a rugged mosaic of rocky ridges, forest and heathland east of Nexø. Here a natural plateau of bedrock has been enclosed by earthworks to form a defended refuge: a so‑called hillfort or village fortification. Archaeological research suggests that the first fortifications were raised around the 2nd or 3rd century CE, placing Gamleborg firmly in the Iron Age, with use continuing in various phases towards around the year 1000. Standing on the uneven plateau, it is easy to see why the site was chosen. Steep slopes and rock faces form natural barriers on several sides, while low ramparts and ditches complete the enclosure where the terrain is gentler. Rather than a castle with towers, Gamleborg was a practical refuge where local communities could retreat briefly with animals, tools and valuables when danger threatened.

Everyday life behind the protective earthworks

Within the roughly oval enclosure there would once have been simple timber buildings, pens and storage areas, though these now survive only as faint traces and subtle changes in the ground. When unrest loomed in the Baltic, families would have hurried uphill, driving cattle and sheep ahead of them and bringing grain, textiles and metalwork into the safety of the fort. For a short time Gamleborg became a compact, crowded village, protected by its ramparts and a carefully controlled entrance. The fort’s defensive strategy was as much about psychology as brute strength. Attackers faced awkward slopes of fractured granite, funnelling approaches and defenders who knew every rock and hollow. Archaeological finds of hand‑sized beach stones just inside the ramparts show how simply armed defenders could rain down missiles on anyone trying to force their way in, turning the plateau into a formidable stronghold despite its modest walls.

Stories of refuge and resistance

Written references from the 17th century describe Gamleborg as a place where the island’s inhabitants once sought shelter in times of enemy incursions, pelting attackers with stones before firearms were in use. While the text was recorded long after the fort’s main period, excavations have confirmed stockpiles of rounded stones ready to be used as projectiles, tying together legend and physical evidence. Bornholm’s nickname as the “island of castles” reflects centuries of raiders and shifting power in the Baltic. Gamleborg is one link in a chain of defensive sites that includes other hillforts and later strongholds. Here, on a smaller and more intimate scale than at medieval Hammershus, you sense how defence began at the level of local farming communities organising to protect themselves long before stone castles dominated the skyline.

Walking through nature and deep time

Today the fort is partly cloaked in birch and conifer, with patches of heather and moss covering the old ramparts. Approaching on foot, you pass glacial boulders, small marshy hollows and stretches of exposed rock that make the Paradisbakkerne area such a rewarding hiking country. The transition from ordinary forest path to the subtly raised edge of the fort is easy to miss until you realise you are walking along the top of a man‑made defence line blending seamlessly into the natural terrain. The atmosphere is surprisingly tranquil. Birds call from the trees, the wind brushes through the canopy, and in clearings you catch glimpses of the surrounding rocky hills. It is worth circling the enclosure slowly, noticing how the walls are higher in some sections, how the slopes drop away on others, and imagining where watchful eyes once scanned the horizons for sails or smoke.

Practical visit among heather and granite

Gamleborg is an unfenced archaeological site embedded in a broader nature area rather than a stand‑alone monument with facilities. There is no built visitor centre at the fort itself and interpretation is usually limited to simple information boards, so you experience the place largely through your own observation. The uneven ground, roots and rocks require sturdy footwear and moderate mobility, especially in wet weather when slopes can be slippery. There is no entrance fee to visit the hillfort, and access is by forest paths that also serve hikers exploring the wider Paradisbakkerne system. Basic amenities such as marked trails, occasional seating spots and wayfinding signs are typically found at selected trailheads and along main routes rather than right inside the fort. A visit combines naturally with longer walks through the area’s ravines, rocking stones and viewpoints, making Gamleborg both a cultural highlight and a rewarding pause amid Bornholm’s distinctive nature.